Living Like a Local in Gambia: Embracing the Smiling Coast

My first journey beyond Europe was an adventure that changed my perspective on travel and life itself. Traveling solo, I stepped onto the red soil of Gambia, Africa’s “Smiling Coast,” not knowing that this trip would be etched into my heart forever.

Awaiting me in Kotu were my friends—a Gambian-Dutch couple who introduced me to the raw, vibrant beauty of their home. But this wasn’t a typical tourist trip. It was about immersing myself in the culture, living like a local, and seeing Gambia for what it truly is: a place of warmth, resilience, and authenticity.

A Home Away from Home

Through my friend's network, I'd found a room to rent in a local compound, far removed from the beachfront resorts. My roommate, Kadi, was close to my age, and we bonded instantly. She became my confidant, and my window into Gambian life.

Our compound, though modest by European standards, felt luxurious compared to where my friends lived—just across the sandy “street.” And by street, I mean a dusty pathway shared by pedestrians, taxis, and the occasional donkey cart. In Gambia, stepping out of a resort means stepping into an entirely different world—a world where community and simplicity reign supreme.

Navigating the Chaos: Transportation in Gambia

Getting around was an adventure in itself. On my first day, I spotted a donkey carrying a full dining set on its back—table and chairs balanced precariously. It was a surreal welcome to a place where ingenuity knows no bounds.

Cabs were my primary mode of transport, but they came with quirks. Seatbelts? Rare. Mirrors? Optional. Engines? Temperamental. On more than one occasion, my taxi broke down mid-journey. The driver would hop out, wave down passersby, and everyone—including me—would push the car until it roared back to life.

Despite the chaos, I never felt unsafe. Traffic in Gambia is more about communication than rules. Drivers shout out of windows to negotiate right of way, and the pace of life ensures that most vehicles don’t move much faster than a brisk walk.

The Local Bus: A One-Time Experience

For the full local experience, I decided to try the bush taxi, a 9-seater van crammed with at least 20 passengers. This wasn’t just public transport—it was a social hub, a marketplace, and, occasionally, a pet carrier. On this particular ride, a goat joined us for the journey, adding to the colorful chaos.

The bus had no windows or doors, and as it bounced along the sandy roads, I clung to my seat and absorbed the experience. It was exhilarating, overwhelming, and deeply humbling all at once. While I was glad to have done it, I decided one ride was enough for me.

Dining Together: A Lesson in Community

One of the most heartwarming experiences during my stay was dining in the compound with all its inhabitants. In the evenings, large communal meals were prepared, and everyone gathered around to share. It wasn’t just about the food—it was about the sense of togetherness that radiated from every smile and laugh.

What struck me most was the way the compound’s residents cared for one another like family, even though they weren’t related by blood. I learned that when someone in the compound lost their job or faced hard times, the others stepped in without hesitation, providing food, clothing, and emotional support. It was a beautiful, unspoken agreement—a way of life rooted in compassion and solidarity.

Sitting cross-legged on a mat, sharing a plate of rice and domoda (a traditional peanut stew), I realized how much we could learn from this kind of community. In Gambia, it’s not about what you have, but what you give, and how you show up for those around you. It’s a lesson I carry with me to this day.

Beyond the Resorts: The Heart of Gambia

Gambia’s beaches are undeniably stunning, but the heart of the country beats strongest beyond the resorts. Strolling through the sandy streets of Kotu and Kololi, I was enveloped by the warmth of smiling faces, the curious gazes of children, and the mouthwatering aroma of local dishes drifting from bustling markets. By my second morning, I was affectionately greeted as "neighbor," and despite my distinct appearance, news of my arrival spread quickly. Before long, everyone in the area seemed to know who I was and was ready to lend a helping hand whenever I needed it.

Each interaction was a testament to the legendary warmth and hospitality of the Gambian people. Strangers became friends, and their stories revealed a deep sense of resilience and pride. This connection made me feel not only welcome but also secure, as if I were part of a larger, caring community. The social fabric of Gambia offered me a sense of safety and belonging that I’ll never forget.

What Gambia Taught Me

Living like a local in Gambia taught me to welcome the unexpected and appreciate the beauty of simplicity. It showed me that the most meaningful travel experiences don’t come from luxury, but from genuine connections—connections with people, with places, and with a way of life so wonderfully different from my own.

Gambia isn’t just a destination; it’s a feeling, an adventure, and a story waiting to be lived. From navigating the sandy streets to sharing laughter on an overcrowded bus, every moment was rich with authenticity and heart. Would I do it all over again? Without a doubt. But next time, I’d pack a little extra patience, an open mind, and perhaps even my own goat to join the ride.